Pas de Bourree, Julie et Toby Bainbridge 2024

Another gem from Julie and Toby Bainbridge, this time made with Grolleau Blanc – a grape that's quietly becoming one of the Loire's most interesting white varieties. While Grolleau (the red version) has been around for ages, the blanc mutation is far less common and only a handful of producers are working with it seriously.

The Bainbridges are among them, and Pas de Bourree shows exactly why it's worth the effort. It's fresh and mineral-driven, with notes of green apple, citrus, and a subtle saline quality that comes from the Loire's limestone soils. There's a lovely tension between the fruit and the acidity – nothing feels heavy or overdone.

Like all their wines, this is farmed organically with minimal intervention in the cellar. The approach lets the grape speak for itself, and what it has to say is pretty compelling. It's the kind of wine that works beautifully with food – think seafood, fresh salads, goat cheese – but it's also perfectly enjoyable on its own.

Grolleau Blanc deserves more attention, and bottles like this are making a strong case for it. If you're curious about lesser-known Loire varieties, this is a great place to start.