Holiday Pack: Rising Stars
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Two winemakers changing what people expect from Spanish wine: a gift for the trendsetter or the curious drinker.
Fernando García and Dani Landi have been rescuing forgotten parcels of old-vine Garnacha in the Sierra de Gredos since 2008. They farm on granitic soils above 1,000 meters of altitude, organically and by hand, and have made a name for themselves and the region in many of the best restaurants in the world.
La Bruja, “The Witch”, is Comando G’s way into the Gredos: Garnacha from several mountain villages, made with native yeasts in old barrels and bottled without fining or filtering. It’s red fruit, wild herbs and a touch of spice, with fine tannins and that bright mountain lift keeping it light on its feet.
Borja Pérez was a racing car mechanic until he inherited his family’s vineyards in northwest Tenerife in 2011 and decided to bottle the wine himself rather than sell the fruit. He now restores old ungrafted vines of local Canarian grapes and is regarded as one of the best viticulturists on the islands. Pair with roasted lamb or pork, or with an unctuous Parmigiana.
Ignios Vijariego Negro is made from the little-known Canarian grape Vijariego grown on volcanic slopes cooled by Atlantic winds. Borja adds nothing but a touch of sulphur at bottling, and the result is a fresh red with spicy red and black fruit, savoury herbs and a hint of volcanic earth. Pair with any kind of roasted poultry (maybe throw some tarragon in there), or with simple oven-roasted veggies with a bunch of fresh herbs.
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