Lassuperiora Bianco, Villa Calicantus 2024

This is the first vintage of Lassuperiora Bianco, and it's something of a statement. Villa Calicantus has always been known for their reds – Sangiovese, Corvina, Rondinella, the classic Veneto varieties – but in 2024 they decided to do something almost unheard of in this part of Italy: make a blanc de noir.

For those unfamiliar, blanc de noir means white wine made from red grapes. The juice is pressed off the skins immediately, so you get all the freshness and delicacy of a white wine, but with the structure and character that comes from red grape varieties. It's a technique more commonly associated with Champagne or Burgundy, not the shores of Lake Garda.

The result is fascinating – a wine that sits somewhere between what you'd expect from the region and something entirely new. There's a subtle texture and weight you don't usually find in Italian whites, alongside bright acidity and mineral notes from the lake's influence. It's the kind of wine that makes you stop and think about what you're drinking.

Villa Calicantus farms biodynamically and works entirely by hand in the vineyards – no machines, no shortcuts. It's labour-intensive and uncommon in modern Italian winemaking, but you can taste the care in every bottle. They're making wines that feel alive and connected to their place, and this blanc de noir is a perfect example of that philosophy.

Villa Calicantus took a risk with this one, and it paid off. If you're looking for something different from the usual Veneto whites, this is it.